Day 1: Sorrento

Tips:

• High season is from mid-April to mid-October, so be prepared for busy crowds and traffic if visiting during this time.
• There is little beach area, so the best place to sunbathe and enjoy swimming is to pay to access the private lidos.
• Bring comfortable shoes as everything in Sorrento is accessible by walking and there are lots of steps to climb up and down.
• Bring mosquito repellent as the pests can be active, especially at night.
• Sorrento is the Limoncello capital of the world, it’s a must to try whilst visiting!

Day 1: Exploring Sorrento

Despite not technically on the Amalfi Coast, I think Sorrento is the best place to stay if you want to explore the Southern Italian coastline. The town is within day trip distance of visiting the Amalfi coast, the islands of Capri, Ischia and the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum. More trains, boats and buses leave Sorrento than any of the other towns, making it an excellent base.

Everything about Sorrento is beautiful; the dramatic landscapes, the architecture and most importantly the food….with tons of cafés serving the perfect gelato pit-stop.

It oozes Italian vibe, and this civilised resort absolutely comes alive in the summer. You will find yourself mooching around the bustling cobblestone alleys day and night.

The souvenirs are bespoke with most of shops selling exclusive woodcraft “intarsia’” gifts , and homemade bottles of Sorrento’s famous post-dinner alcoholic drink Limoncello.

Arriving from Naples airport

If arriving from Naples airport, the cheapest and a relatively stress-free way to travel via public transport is on the Curreri bus, which runs regular transfers between Naples and Sorrento. You can purchase a one-way ticket from the driver (€ 10) and the journey time to Sorrento is around 60 minutes, but can vary with traffic. For Sorrento, the bus will drop you at Circumvesuvian station, situated a short walk from the main Piazzo Tasso.

Accommodation: Surriento Suites

I’d highly recommend the Surriento Suites as a place to stay, with its magical views of Mt Vesuvis. This bed & breakfast complex is made up of a cluster of three apartment suites conveniently located at Marina Piccola. The best thing about Surriento Suites is the conscientious owner Pamela, who generously takes the time to suggest places to visit. Pamela bakes her native ‘Sfogliatella’ Campania pastries as a welcome treat for every guest, and services the apartment everyday with fresh breakfast supplies.

Offering the same views as the famous Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, this hidden gem is conveniently located with the most perfect morning outlook.

To arrive at the apartment, catch the public lift from the Piazza Francesco Saverio Gargiulo through the gardens of Villa Communale. The lift takes you 160ft down beneath the cobbled streets in less than 20 secs. (€ 1,00 / € 1,80 return, check opening hours here.)

Exploring:

I suggest exploring Sorrento during your first day on the Amalfi Coast. As one of the larger towns in Southern Italy, it’s the perfect first stop to show off Italy’s rustic charm.

Here are my recommendations for spending a day and evening in Sorrento:

Marina Piccola

Start by exploring Marina Piccola, the port situated in the corner of the Sorrento. This is a good place to become familiarise yourself with, as the ferry / hydrofoils depart here.

Piazza Tasso

The charming historic quarter of Sorrento is centred on Piazza Tasso. By day it’s a busy traffic junction where cars and mopeds weave around pedestrians, and by night the bars and restaurants stay open late offering strollers the perfect chance to eat, sip, talk and photograph whilst soaking in the atmosphere or enjoying an easygoing evening stroll.

You’ll find the chance to take a horse and carriage ride, stop for a gelato and ride on the small white tourist train.

I Giardini di Cataldo

This family-run Agruminato (“fruits garden”) is a beautiful must-see in the heart of Sorrento. The owners use methods of organic farming to look after the colourful citrus groves which are open for the public to explore. Be sure to sample their locally made citrus products, such as the lemon granita “slush” and of course the famous Limoncello. You’ll find the gardens are just a short walk from Piazza Tasso, along Via Correale.

Il Vallone dei Mulini

Hidden behind the Piazza Tasso is this old ruins, picturesquely submerged by vegetation is known as the “Deep Valley of the Mills”. Until the early nineteenth century it was a working mill, but it’s been abandoned for over a thousand years. You are unable to walk onto site, but a good view is from Via Fuorimura, just off Piazza Tasso. The best times to visit is early or mid-morning when the light is bright, or at night when it’s illuminated.

Marina Grande

Oozing with plenty of rustic charm and fresh sea air is Sorrento’s fishing harbour, Marina Grande, just a short stroll away from the old town. Expect to see local fisherman cleaning their nets with fishing still very much an active trade here. You’ll find restaurants and cafés line the water boasting their “catch of the day” specials. Sit here to enjoy wider views across the Bay of Naples as the sun sets over the bay.

To reach the Marina Grande, walk down a series of stone steps from Via del Mare which will lead you from the old town, or alternatively take a local bus from the city centre.

Evening meal: Trattoria Da Emilia

Serving diners in Sorrento since 1947, this authentic Italian restaurant has rickety wooden tables and red-checkered tablecloths. It receives my winning card for local atmosphere. Tourists and locals alike often queue for a table, but the restaurant has a speedy service, which means the wait never seems to take too long.

Food is prepared quickly and without frills. Enjoy a plate of honest “spaghetti al vongole” (spaghetti with clams – below) washed down with a carafe of red wine!

Prices are more reasonable than the other restaurants, making this a great spot for dinner or lunch whilst soaking in the ambiance of the beautiful Marina Grande.

This pasta is rather good, but the best pasta is yet to come!