Day 2: Lisbon

Tips:

• Alfama is the oldest district in Lisbon full of steep cobbled streets, so be sure to bring comfortable, non-slippery walking shoes to explore this area.
• The queues to enter São Jorge Castle can get busy, so it’s best to go early or later in the afternoon. During the summer months the castle is open until 9pm.
• The site of the castle is extensive so it’s best to allow a good couple of hours to explore the castle ruins, rooftops vistas and colourful peacocks in the grounds.
• Typically home to Lisbon’s musical experience with various fado houses lining the streets. Most of these restaurants are very intimate, requiring book in advance.

Day 2: Exploring Lisbon: Alfama

A visit to Lisbon is not complete without exploring Alfama. The winding streets, cobbled stone alleys, cafes, views; and of course its history means everything in this old district is waiting to be explored and appreciated at a leisurely pace.

There are various miradouros in Alfama making it a rewarding trip for walkers and photographers because of it’s amazing vistas and hilltop gardens.

Catching the tram is the best way to get there. But, as mentioned, Tram 28 can get packed with locals commuting in the morning, so The Yellow Bus tours offer a ‘hop-on-hop-off’ red tram car, which is a comfortable ride and provides a useful audio guide.

There are two types of tram tours exploring different areas so be sure to take the “Hills Tramcar Tour” to hop on and hop off at the São Jorge Castle. They run daily from around 9.30am, starting from Praça do Comércio where you can board and purchase tickets.

The journey to São Jorge Castle is around 30 mins so you can sit back and enjoy the audio commentary along the way revealing the secrets and charms of Portugal’s colourful capital city whilst traversing the narrow streets and hilly neighbourhoods.

Keep an eye out for the colourful patterned tiled buildings on the way.

Hop off the tram at “Alfama” and start making your way to São Jorge Castle by heading up the narrow streets that will lead you to the walls of the castle.

Much of the present castle ruins date back to the 1920s. Ticket prices are €8.50 per adult and the opening hours are 9.00am-9.00pm (Mar-Oct) and 9.00am-6.00pm (Nov-Feb).

The castle itself is a great place to walk around, but the best thing about it are the views of the city. So, be sure to climb to the top of the castle to get the best panoramic shots.

The terracotta rooftops can be seen for miles with the 25 de Abril bridge and the river in the background. The sunset is also apparently magical and worth a visit!

Once the heat gets the better of you, head back down the castle walls to arrive at Portas Do Sol for lunch at Memmo Alfama with an amazing view overlooking the river.

Close by, in the yard of a whitewashed church, is Santo Estêvão Square offering a lovely, more intimate vista point across the terracotta rooftops in this former parish church.

If you have the luxury of spending more than a few days in Lisbon you could easily stay in Alfama for a full day. Visiting the local shops, enjoy an afternoon aperitif and admiring the Sé de Lisboa cathedral as the sun starts to set and the evening begins.

You’ll find lots of tiny cobbled streets lined with restaurants offering fado alongside dinner as Alfama also has lots to offer in the evening. It’s selection of fado houses are where locals drop in to sing their hearts out and entertain diners in an intimate setting.

A Baiuca feels like you are gate-crashing a family party with it’s cozy set up and interior lined with traditional pottery and musical items. It’s a special experience where locals take it in turn to sing and diners hiss if anyone dares to chat during the performance.

Make sure you book a table in advance, as there is only about 6 of them. There’s a €25 minimum spend, and the the food is basic and unpretentious with traditional dishes like chargrilled monkfish or salted cod.

When the singing starts, everyone else stops including the kitchen and table service. People line the streets outside to listen to the music, whilst locals drop in at various points to take up the spotlight in this authentic fado house.