Day 3: Ischia

Tips:

• One great charm about Ischia is that it’s relatively undiscovered, the only downfall  is that of the locals don’t speak English, so communication can be little tricky.
• The island itself is divided into six towns so it can also be overwhelming to visit in one day. It’s best to prioritise the attractions you want to see.
• The ferry times aren’t as frequent, so you must plan your arrival / departure times.
• Bring swimwear to take up the opportunity to bathe in the hot springs, the water can be scorching, so it’s advisable to also bring water shoes / flip flops.

Day 3: Exploring Ischia

Ischia (pronounced EE-skee-ah) is Capri’s lesser known next-door neighbour. A hidden gem of ruins, vineyards, hot springs and lush greenery earns itself the title of the “Emerald Island”. This unique island is renowned for it’s naturally curated charm. It doesn’t attract a wealth of day visitors or English tourists, so you’re likely to find the island is swamped with mainly savvy Italians seeking “la dolce vita” (the sweet life).

Many visitors stay for a couple of nights, and from my own experience, a day trip here can be ambitious because it takes time to travel around this bountiful island landscape.

Arriving: by ferry

Ischia can be easily reached from Sorrento via high-speed hydrofoil provided by a company called Alilauro. There are two crossings each way per day and the timings change depending on which day you travel. It’s best to check timings in advance before you go here. For a round-trip it works out €47pp, with a journey time of one hour.

If arriving by boat you’ll enter the horseshoe harbour of Ischia Porto, be sure to get your camera ready as you sail past the famous Castello Aragonese…

I suggest heading to the “Ischia Directory” (Tourist Information Centre) once you arrive, which is on Via Alfredo De Luca, about a ten-minute walk from Ischia Porto. This sounds like a real touristy thing to do, but due to the lack of English speakers on the island, it’s a useful to stock up on a handful of maps and also pick up a copy of the bus timetable.

Ischia Ponte: Castello Aragonese

Castello Aragonese is the main attraction in the old town of Ischia Ponte, and many tour guides will probably send you off to explore here. It is an iconic symbol of Ischia, standing as a unique medieval castle with its own establishment on top of a rocky hill.

It costs €10 to wander around the ruins, but despite having an interesting history there is not loads to see. My highlight was reaching the castle’s highest point to seek out the seascape views of Mount Epomeo and the Gulf of Naples.

Travelling around: local buses

The most authentic and cheapest way to travel is on the local orange buses that connect the whole island. Riding the local bus is an experience in itself, watching the drivers carefully navigating past each other on single lane roads. You’ll have to attempt to stay upright as the bus accelerates round the bends, making this a memorable journey.

Hot Springs: Baia di Sorgeto

Being a non-active volcanic island, Ischia has lots of thermal water fed by dormant Mount Epomeo. I recommend experiencing the island’s largest outdoor hot springs. This was the highlight of my visit, so if only visiting for one day I suggest prioritising here.

It is free of charge and open all year round, so bathers tend to spend the day enjoying the outdoor naturally heated rock pools.

Travelling here:

You can ride on the bus line 1, or local buses CD / CS – all from Ischia Porto to bus stop Panza. It takes around 30 minutes to travel from the harbour, but can take longer in high season. When you get off the bus, it’s a downhill walk and there are plenty of signs directing you down to the small cove. But be warned this walk is not for the faint-hearted, there are over 300 stone steps to climb up and down to reach the cove.

Despite looking like an ordinary beach at first glance, the water can reach to up to 90 degrees, so you have to strategically choose your position based on temperature. The water is hot enough to boil an egg – on my visit someone was boiling a bag of potatoes…

Locals sell natural clay packs for the face and body, which are said to help achieve silky smooth skin – you’ll see plenty mud-faced bathers in the water basking in the heat. Spending time here, really feels like you have discovered the islands best-kept secret!

Once back at Ischia Porto, you must stop for a gelato before catching the ferry back. “Bar Da Ciccio” is considered an institution in Ischia, it has built a reputation since 1947 providing a welcoming environment for both locals and tourists alike. Many promise that it offers the best gelato in Ischia, and it’s difficult to disagree. The ice cream I had was full of chunks of coconut and embellished with tasty pistachio nuts – dreamy!

Whilst it is possible to do a day trip here, there is a lack of development on the city’s infrastructure, so it can be frustrating to explore on public transport if in a hurry. Many visitors choose to spend at least three days. The six costal towns of Ischia each have long stretches of admirable sandy beaches, making it a tempting place for a longer stay!

Evening meal: Ristorante Zi’Ntonio, Sorrento

Our AirBnB host recommended Ristorante Zi’Ntonio for a traditional Italian experience, and this restaurant did not disappoint. Despite being so central, along Via Luigi de Maio, the prices are reasonable and the interior is authentic with live music echoing through the space. There is a decent menu selection of honest Italian food. I recommend the Scialatielli Allo Scoglio – rated my tried and tested no.1 pasta dish from this trip!