Day 6: Capri

Capri by boat

Tales says that you haven’t experienced Capri island until you’ve seen it from the sea,  making boat tours one of the top attractions. Famous “giro” cruises line up at Marina Grande, so you’ll see a flotilla of companies offering a range of high-luxe to round-trips.

There are two options for exploring Capri by boat: organised tours (lasting between 1 or 2 hours) costing around €17pp or individual tours where you rent a private tour. The organised tour is the best option for first-time visitors who have limited time to spare.

Statute of Scugnizzo

Whilst cruising the seas from Marina Grande, the first thing you’ll see is the Statue of Scugnizzo – look out for the bronzed boy greeting you with a welcoming wave!

The famous grottoes

I think the boat trip is best to do as soon as you arrive. It’s a nice way to get your bearings of the rocky coastline. It lasts over an hour long and bypasses many of Capri’s major sites, as well as taking time to spy into some of the hidden coves.

The Blue Grotto may be world famous, but Capri’s hidden secret is that there’s also a Green, Yellow, White and Pink Grotto…

Grotta Azzurra

You’ll probably read in the guide books about the infamous Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto) which is on many peoples list to see. It was on my original list, but now that I’ve seen the queues and the waiting time, I would advise to skip this and continue with the boat tour.

When I visited there was a long traffic jam of boats, with over an hour wait to enter. The boat driver gave everyone the option of transferring into another boat to wait, or continuing with the tour. Most of the people on the boat agreed to skip seeing this because we didn’t have time to spend half the day queuing to enter for a short time inside. My advice if you want to do this is to either visit early morning or late evening.

I Faraglioni

As the boat tour continues, you’ll explore the famous I Faraglioni – Capri’s largest rock formation. Regard this as the island’s equivalent of natural skyscrapers, they are an iconic sight to see, soaring almost 350ft above water, sculptured over time because of erosion. The rock farthest from the shore is home to the native blue-tinted lizard.

When you pass underneath the I Faraglioni rocks, you are supposed to kiss someone to make sure your love lasts forever.Capri town

After enjoying Capri by boat you will be dropped back to Marina Grande. From here you will see queues of people waiting to board the famous funicular which ascends and descends to Capri main town. If the queue is too long and you feel like being active you can walk uphill to the centre. Stop for a scoop of gelato at “Il Gelato Al Limone S.R.L”, a two minute walk from the Marina. The gelato is made with fresh ingredients and there’s a range of interesting flavours to choose from: mango, melon, and chocolate with orange.

Carthusia perfumery

Once you’ve reached Capri Town, you’ll be in the heart of the compact, bustling and glamorous centre. The town’s square, Piazza Umberto, is the perfect place to window shop with its lanes full of designer stores, waiting to lure you in. One shop that I loved is called Antica Santoria, famous for making traditional handmade lace and crochet dresses, kaftans and tops – the shop is filled with gorgeous Italian beach outfits!

From Piazza Umberto, I recommend heading to the Giardini di Augusto, stoping off at the famous Carthusian perfumery to see the flora scents of Capri in action. The beautiful scents waft out of the laboratory and you can also see the perfume being made here.Giardini di Augusto

This botanical gardens showcases an array of colour and beauty, and is a must-see on your day trip. Its terraces offer a 180 degree view of Capri, making this the perfect spot to capture stunning images and admire the famous I Faraglioni from land. 

Among the most common plants here are the cacti, agave and the prickly pear (below).

Capri’s reputation as an earthly “Garden of Eden” feels well-deserved in this space.

Marina Piccola

From the terraces of Giardini di Augsto you will see the village of Marina Piccola (which is located on the opposite side of the island from the Marina Grande). Generally considered the best beach of the island, offering a cluster of restaurants and pebbled coves where you can dip into the turquoise water. The beach used to be accessible from the winding Via Krupp pathway, but dangerous rockfalls have forced it to close, so you’ll have to walk back to the Piazzetta to catch the bus (€2.50).

The waters are an unreal colour, and the restaurants offer good pizza selections if you fancy a cheaper lunch option in a glorious beach setting!

 

Granita: Chiosco Tizzano di Natalia e Antonio

Granita stalls are popular all across Italy and Capri offers one of the best. This stall is located on the way to Giardini di Augsto. Wait in line to be served by the brother and sister team who have kept their wonderful fathers granita stand alive. The ‘granita di limone’ is a must try (it was my favourite) and is made from fresh Capri lemons.

They also uniquely offer a honey fig slush, made from the honey figs grown there.

This fig slush is very thick with real chunky bits of fresh figs mushed into it. It is quite sweet and not as refreshing as the lemon granita – but I tried it as a speciality!

Evening meal: Ristorante Ruccio, Sorrento

Just moments away from the AirBnB is Ristorante Ruccio, located underneath the apartment, on the water edge of Marina Piccola. This was a great alternative to try one evening and a refreshing change from venturing up the stairs to the main square.

 

The fresh fish was cooked to perfection – the calamari and shrimp platter is to die for!